In Conversation with designer Tamsin Backbourn on her debut Womenswear Collection!
Saturday, July 19, 2014
Like with art, I have a massive appreciation of the talent, skill and craftsmanship that goes into creating the jewellery and clothes I wear! For me how an item is made, and the materials that are used is fundamental in creating something truly beautiful, which is why I've always loved visiting one of NI's top independent jewellers: Thomas Belfast! Renowned for it's beautiful jewellery, you may remember my blog post from last year about the store (click HERE to read) which is a true treasure trove of stunning jewellery!
Owner Tamsin Blackbourn prides herself in stocking a wide range of designer jewellery across various price points and also produces her own fantastic jewellery range exclusive to her store! As a massive fan of Tamsin's jewellery I was beyond excited when she and Emma from Thomas contacted me to share the exciting news that Tamsin was branching out into womanswear with her first clothing line to debut at the Unify Fashion Showcase! To say I was excited was a massive understatement and as each model strutted down the catwalk I litterly fell in love with every look!
Garments that concentrate on exquisite cuts, feminine silhouettes and timeless design is the calling card of Tamsin Blackbourn's designs, and not only do I have the photos of the collection to share with you all, but I also had the pleasure of interviewing Tamsin about her new clothing line too to gain an exclusive insight into her clothing designs!
Tamsin, there is a great heritage of design within your family, with your grandmother being an accomplished tailoress. What was it like growing up surrounded by such a rich tradition of design in your family?
There is a great heritage, but growing up, it wasn’t referred to as being anything special. Both of my grandmothers had been trained in the rag trade, but worked from home after marrying, as was the custom in those times. Most of my childhood clothes were handmade and I was regularly measured at visits to the grandparents. I was never consulted about what was made for me, it would be there, fresh on a hanger upon the picture rail at the next visit. I rarely saw anything of the production process and I was never sat down and shown how to do anything by either of my grandmothers. I don’t think it occurred to them or maybe they didn’t wish it for me. Whatever the reason, it seems to have been passed on to me anyway! And I also have inherited my Nanna’s dining table which she used for cutting out, which is exactly what I use it for, too!
"Ciara" top & "Anna" black and red skirt.
Close up of "Anna" black and red skirt.
Most people will know you primarily as a jewellery designer, what inspired you to take the leap from jewellery to designing clothes?
It was always there. I began sewing when I was around eight, making cross stitch, then progressing to dolls clothes, embroideries, patchwork and tapestries. As a teenager, I loved looking through family commercial dressmaking patterns from the fifties and sixties and adapting them. However, I went to art college and pursued metalwork. I briefly considered textiles or fashion, but I knew people who were applying for those courses and they were much better at it than I was. Over the last couple of years, I thought ‘why not me?’ and then started to work out what it would take to do it.
"Ciara" top & "Anna" black skirt.
You are known for designing exquisite jewellery, using only the finest of materials such as luminous freshwater pearls and sparking semi precious jewels. How has that inspired your first womanswear collection?
Quality of materials and manufacture is fundamental - it’s impossible to achieve a quality piece without having both. Then, it is to do with a love of making things and my approach is the same for designing clothing and jewellery. The material often inspires, be it in metal, precious stones or textile fabric. I imagine what it can become. Colour and it’s relationship to other colours and how it suits people with different skin tones, hair and eye colour is something I’m always observing.
How much of your current collection is inspired by your own personal style?
Very much. I have to like what I design otherwise I couldn’t genuinely expect anyone else to like it. My hope is that if I like it, perhaps other people will, too?
The "Rebekah" dress.
How would you best describe your debut collection, and what kind of woman can you see wearing your designs?
My clothing collection is for women who are looking for well made clothes in beautiful fabrics that are easy to wear and look after. Women who want clothes with a vintage feel in a contemporary garment. As it’s a summer collection there are cottons and linens and printed fabric. I source fabrics that have are feminine and I love carved or painted real shell buttons. Black, grey and white are essentials in most wardrobes, but I like prints in the summer, too, so there’s a mix of plain and patterns with colour which customers can put together in their own way or work with what they already own. At the moment, there are tops, shirts and skirts. I mainly wear dresses, so there are lots of dresses!
The "Ashleigh" dress.
Your designs are both current and eternally timeless, what inspires you as a designer?Thank you, I take that as a great compliment and that makes two of us at least who think that! I look back at past styles in fashion and think about the way they were cut and how the proportions work. However, all this needs to be reinterpreted to make it relevant to the kind of fit we prefer now. The timeless part is important to me as it should also mean long lasting. I am uneasy with the disposable attitude to fashion that is prevalent. In times past, clothes would have been handed on from mistress to maid, from mother to daughter, maybe taken in or let out and when totally worn, it would have been cut up to make rag rugs, patchwork and dusters. I really love that idea of reusing and recycling which we lost for a while, but is returning with a growing awareness of the impact of mass consumerism on our environment and natural resources. It is a balance of course though, as I still want and need people to carry on buying my frocks!
Tamsin's equisite clothing labels!
I especially love your (mother of) pearl bracelets and necklaces with carved roses and I've noticed you've carried through this detailing with painted rose and carved shell buttons! Even your clothing labels are beautifully crafted, how important was it to you to maintain this level of detail in the finish of your garments?
For me, it’s always all in the detail. I don’t like clothes (or anything) to be unnecessarily fussy, but the right kind of attention to detail makes something delightful, that otherwise might be less so. We all appreciate those special, unexpected touches in every aspect of life. It’s about creating pleasure in the smallest things. I’m also a bit obsessive about clothes being fully lined. This is a detail you don’t see, but it seems quite unsatisfactory to have to hunt through your slip drawer to find one that has the right neckline/ length/ colour/ fabric composition. Linings help clothes hang correctly, too. As this collection is made of cotton or linen, all the linings are in 100% cotton lawn. And a tip I did pick up from the Grandmothers, is that clothes should be as well finished on the inside as the outside.
"Ciara" top & "Anna" grey skirt.
Watching your debut collection on the Unify catwalk,I was falling in love with every piece, especially the LBD worn by former Miss Northern Ireland Model Meagan Green! Which piece is your personal favourite?
I’m so glad you liked them. Probably, the next one I’m about to start working on. I love all of them as I am designing and making them. I couldn’t labour over them if I didn’t. Meagan looked amazingly ethereal in the dress she modelled at the Unify NI showcase. I have actually named the pieces from this initial collection after all the models who wore them. So the LBD that Meagan wore is named after her and the shift dress with the black and red embroidery is named ‘Rebekah’ after the current Miss Northern Ireland, Rebekah Shirley.
The "Meagan" dress.
It must have been a wonderful experience seeing your designs making their catwalk debut at the Unify Fashion Showcase, and I know you've recently refurbished an area in Thomas Belfast to sell the collection, what lies in store for Tamsin Blackbourn Designs in the future?
It was a truly fabulous evening. The models were from ACA and I was so impressed with their supreme professionalism, great attitudes and camaraderie. They literally brought my designs to life. I’m also very grateful to Unify NI to have had the opportunity to participate in this event - it is a fantastic organisation which has made it very affordable and stress-free for designers to showcase collections. In the shop, we have moved things around to display the clothes and I have relinquished my office to create a quiet and private dressing room, away from the main shop. I’m currently producing the garments that were featured in the May Unify showcase and we’re having an official launch later in July. Then I’ll be working on the Autumn 2014 which will be available in early September. Can’t wait!
Tamsin Blackbourn Designs are currently available at Thomas Belfast, and I would certainly recommend to anyone who is a fan of exquisitely finished clothing to visit! Tamsin and her team are absolutely fantastic, trust me you won't be disappointed!
You can also find them online at www.thomasbelfast.co.uk on Facebook or follow them on twitter @ThomasBelfast.
A massive thank you to Tamsin Blackbourn for taking the time to answer all my questions & for the use of her photographs and also to Emma Jackson at Thomas Belfast! All catwalk photographs by John Stewart from the Unify Fashion Showcase, & thanks to John too for the use of his catwalk photos!
